“Natural,” “eclectic,” “unpretentious,” and “imaginative” easily describe both the enticing cuisine and relaxed atmosphere of Ohio City's Flying Fig. When Executive Chef Karen Small opened the restaurant almost five years ago, she designed the menu and the interior with creativity, incorporating strong local influences.

Covering the expanse of two walls, murals in earthy tones combine silhouettes of geometric shapes, plants and wine glasses to provide an interesting yet unassuming backdrop to the main dining area at the rear of the restaurant. The entire room is enveloped in an organic palette and diffuse lighting. A romantic nook with church pews for seats adds an unexpected twist to the snug environment. Small explained that the assorted styles of local artist Chris Schram and what she refers to as “a compendium of people” converged to create this unique and comfortable atmosphere in a mere three months prior to the restaurant's opening.

Since the opening of Flying Fig, local sustainable produce has been featured and incorporated into every dish. Small explained that her support of this type of farming naturally arose from her personal interests in the health and political aspects of the business. “It's more important than ever now, because what's happening to our food supply is very scary,” she commented. “Hormones, antibiotics and genetic engineering are all just wrong.” She continued, “People who want to grow produce for a living are not trying to live like kings. They just want to be able to make a living at farming without being squashed by agribusiness.”

Dotted with footnotes, the menu highlights and gives credit for the ingredients from local family farms. Small creates each dish with in-season produce, meats and cheeses, and notes, “The menu changes seasonally but may also change at the drop of a hat if something becomes either unavailable or abundant. You never know when something is going to be exceptional or when a farmer is going to call you and say, 'I'm digging all my carrots!'” She embraces these situations with imagination and flair, and her dishes are all brimming with robust, complementary, contrasting flavors.

When ordering appetizers, I was immediately intrigued by the tempura-battered green beans with ponzu and Szechuan sweet chili dipping sauces. Certainly the most unique finger food I have ever eaten, they arrived at our table fresh and crunchy. I would be quite satisfied to have a drink at the bar and munch on these all evening. Another unique item, the tasty and tender duck enchiladas were served with a peanut chipotle mole and apple jicama salad. The cultured mussels in a spicy coconut curry broth were exceptionally fresh and full-flavored. The roasted beet salad was an artistic presentation of pears, goat cheese, pistachios, greens and horseradish vinaigrette. The textures and flavors contrasted so wonderfully that I easily could have eaten this on its own as my meal.

Once my meal arrived, however, I was quite pleased that I did not stop at the beet salad. My lamb shank was so tender that it fell off the bone and melted in my mouth, the aromatic flavors of the lamb mingling with the sweetness of the glaze. The feta couscous contrasted the lamb in its texture and subtle saltiness. The plate was rounded out with freshly cooked baby carrots and spinach. A myriad of savory flavors and textures met my mouth as I sampled the flavorful herb-crusted grouper, mashed potatoes with the perfect hint of horseradish, earthy chanterelle mushrooms and fresh asparagus. Truffled mashed potatoes complemented the roasted free-range chicken breast, which was also served with a thick, savory gravy – think of it as an upscale, home-cooked meal. Vegan diners should try the sesame-crusted tofu. The tasty curry vinaigrette, stir – fried vegetables and jasmine rice all blended perfectly with the tofu's full flavor crispy exterior, and soft center.

Although Small insists that she does not feel compelled to incorporate figs into the dishes, Woo City fig ice cream is on the menu. As an avid fan of desserts (and chocolate), I tried it with the molten chocolate cake. I was in chocolaty, figgy dessert heaven! Just like in those familiar Newtons, the fig ice cream was sweet and a little crunchy. For those who do not share my passion for intensely rich chocolate desserts, try the crème brulée. The crispy crust concealed a delightful, creamy sweetness beneath.

When I at last put down my fork, I found myself curious about the name of the restaurant. Small explained that in the months that led up to the opening of the restaurant, she was constantly asked what she was going to name it. Thinking that this was not as important as defining the menu and developing the perfect atmosphere, she never had an answer for this. One day close to the restaurant's opening, Alice Dixon, the manager, was watching a soap opera, and one of the characters dramatically exclaimed, “I don't give a flying fig!” It suddenly became the most appropriate name for the new establishment, as that is exactly how Small had approached the entire naming process. I, however, highly recommend that you give a flying fig, and try the Flying Fig!
Flying Fig is located in Ohio City at 2523 Market Ave., Cleveland, Ohio. (216) 241-4243. They are open Tuesday through Thursday evenings from 5-11pm, Fridays and Saturdays from 5-11:30 pm, and Sunday from 5-9 pm.