Housed in a former steam-powered grain mill, the Inn at Turner's Mill in Hudson, Ohio boasts exceptional fare, gregarious service and a new executive chef who is integrating the very freshest local ingredients into the menu. The Inn's massive brick building, constructed in 1852, continues to retain its rustic mill exterior. Inside is an equally unpretentious interior – hardwood walls, antique furniture, uncluttered decorations, white twinkle lights – and certainly quite a bit more comfort and ambiance than a mill would offer!

Michael Fiala, executive chef, is new to the Inn as of this spring. The fusion of his passion, experience and reverence for his predecessors makes him an excellent and conscious chef. It is a bonus that he emphasizes local, sustainable ingredients on his menu. Michael views the creation of the Inn's new summer menu as an opportunity for evolution. He explained, “I have to balance what I feel in my heart and what the customer wants. I'd like to see us use local ingredients whenever we can. My vision is that this is a growing process.”

Michael's zeal for fresh produce stems from both personal and professional experiences. “Some of my earliest and best childhood memories are of following my father around the garden as he planted corn and beets,” Michael told us. “In my practical restaurant life, I have been influenced by my experience at Fire [in Shaker Square] and getting to know Parker [Bosley, owner of Parker's in Ohio City] with his passion and his accomplishments over the years in making restaurants and sustainable agriculture work together.”

Noting that “It takes at least a good year for a farmer toget a sense of how much food you can use,” Michael has already begun to form relationships with local growers in integrating fresh ingredients into the Inn's menu. He remarked that relying on local produce also puts a chef at the mercy of the weather. “The farmer who sells me my greens has been wiped out in March for the past two years.” He smiled and continued, “In some ways, though, that's the beauty of it.” Because the Inn supports a large crowd of diners, Michael supplements the local produce with other fresh and organic options. For Michael, flavor is paramount. The Buchanans, who own the Inn at Turner's Mill, are very supportive of Michael's creativity and his knack for integrating local ingredients.

During my dining experience at the Inn, I elected to order the tasting menu, a standard menu item, as it gave me the delightful opportunity to sample a generous selection of Chef Michael's creations. The tasting menu has six courses that can be paired with wines. Everything was outstanding, and nothing was extravagant.

My cold appetizer plate held rolls of slightly salty Serrano ham atop tender and firm baby asparagus, flanked by two flavorful sauces. As golden as the morning sun, the yellow tomato coulis was equally brilliant in flavor. The black truffle emulsion was lightly creamy and somewhat sweet.

A delicate mound of vivid reds, yellows and greens comprised my tomato salad plate. The organic cherry and golden tomatoes were flavorful and fresh, and the peppery watercress and salty goat cheese wonderfully contrasted the drizzle of sweet, pungent balsamic vinegar.

I indulgently sampled two scrumptious soups. The tasty cream of mushroom soup was light, earthy and more “mushroomy” than creamy. The color of the sweet pea and green garlic soup was as vibrant as a lush meadow after a spring rain. Although completely pureed, it had all the flavor of exceptionally fresh, crisp peas.

The dandelion salad was an innovative marriage of fresh flavors and fascinating textures. The spicy dandelion greens were topped with strawberries, creamy goat cheese and toast points, all tossed in a spectacular, tangy rhubarb vinaigrette. I learned from Michael that this delightful salad is one example of a dish made entirely of local ingredients.

The strip steak in my entrée course was cooked to a perfect medium-rare. The tender meat melted at the touch of my steak knife, and I savored each peppery, moist bite. Michael told me that it came from Carmel Hill, a local natural, grass-fed meat purveyor. It was so fresh that I could taste the “localness.” Served atop a generous portion of creamy garlic mashed potatoes and swimming in a small puddle of veal au jus, the steak was accompanied by hearty, earthy oyster mushrooms and zesty mustard greens.

Finally, Michael presented me with strawberry shortcake that showcased this fresh summer fruit jewel. Mountains of tart, sweet petite strawberries spilled out from between the two layers of buttery cake. A generous portion of fluffy whipped cream and a fresh sprig of mint completed this extraordinary dessert. It was elegantly uncomplicated, and tasted truly homemade.

I asked Michael about how he plans to change the menu as we enter the mid-summer season. “When I made the summer menu,” he replied, “I really thought about what summer means to me. I integrated corn, tomatoes, melon, char-grilling and some very light dishes.” He continued, “I plan to get to the farmers' market and be able to put out dishes that are completely market-fresh. Plus, I want to point out, right on the menu, that the food is coming from our own local ecosystem.”

Every bite I ate at the Inn at Turner's Mill was as inviting as the atmosphere. The regular menu lists an exceptional selection of hearty, fresh dishes. When you visit, I encourage you to wander around the building and view the antique photographs of historic Hudson. Downstairs you'll find E.B. Ellsworth Tavern, a comfortable bar and seating area with live jazz performed on Wednesday through Saturday. This sizeable establishment offers cozy fireplace nooks during the winter and breezy porch seating in the summer. Regardless of the season, you are guaranteed a delicious experience!

The Inn at Turner's Mill is located at 36 East Streetsboro Street in Hudson, Ohio. They can be reached by calling (330) 655-2949, and can be visited online at www.turnersmill.com. They are open for lunch and dinner, and they have rooms available for private functions.

Photos by Bob Perkoski - www.Perkoski.com.