Crisp and sweet and limey, a thirst-quenching caipirinha finds its way to my lips before we even have a chance to settle into our table. Ahhhh… Brazil. Bright and colorful, warm and cheery, comforting and relaxing. I close my eyes and open my ears to the delicate chords dancing over my head from the acoustic guitar being played in the corner. Turning to gaze out the window at mounds of winter snow, I am reminded that I am still in Cleveland. However, I shall enjoy the evening at Sergio's as if I am vacationing in sultry Brazil.

A cozy restaurant in University Circle, Sergio's surrounds its diners with a myriad of flavors and textures native to the South American melting pot of Brazil. The cuisine is authentically seasoned, not to be confused with spicy, making the most of flavors which reflect the influences of Native Brazil, Africa and Europe. The recipes are undeniably enhanced by owners Sergio and Susan Abramof's insistence on quality. Sergio, who is also the executive chef, told us, “The quality of the ingredient is reflected by the manner in which it was raised and harvested. We make decisions based on that premise. With the advent of concerns around food safety including how it is raised, how it is marketed, the contaminants that are potentially in it and the pollution factors, we look at sources from sustainable agriculture and meats that are organically grown and fed appropriate animal food.” He continued, “I want to know more than just how it looks when it comes in my door; I want to know how it got there and what has been used to raise it and feed it.”

Most of the traditional seafood dishes of Brazil at Sergio's are found on the list of specials that changes according to availability. Sergio explained why the specials rotate. “Day boats in Honolulu go out to catch fish that is to be flown in the next day. This fish has a much better chance of being a superior product, preferable to a farm-raised fish that is raised on commercially produced feed.”

Shrimp baiana, found on the nightly menu, is a traditional dish created with a nod to the recipes that trace their roots back to African slave ships that once docked in Bahia, a seaport on the northern coast of Brazil. The tender gulf shrimp in this dish were served to us in a delightful, creamy coconut milk sauce flavored with garlic and malaguetta pepper. A spice from the ginger family, this pepper grows in the Amazon and lends a distinctive, aromatic flavor to the dish.

Many generations ago, peasants in Brazil created a deliciously salty, smoky black bean stew called feijoada. Simmered with lingulca sausage, smoked bacon, ham and pork loin, Sergio's rendition of this dish filled me to contentment. Its creaminess was complemented by the crunchy texture of the farofa, a topping derived from roasting and grinding a root vegetable called cassava. This earthy topping is commonly used in both African and Brazilian cooking, and it accompanied many of the dishes on the menu.

A fresh, flavorful and artistically presented vegetarian plate, prado misto, featured the tasty farofa topping to set off crisp pea pods and green beans partnered with savory black beans and rice. Fried spinach and carloca tomato relish each played prominently in this dish as well, and thin, battered red onion rings crowned the top. Dining note of interest: The fried spinach is a unique experience in itself. Prepared with only salt, this deep fried spinach arrived paper-thin and was extraordinarily addictive.

Never one to pass on the finishing sweet touch to a remarkable meal, I made sure to leave room for dessert. Our three scrumptious selections were distinctly different and each amazing in their own right. The Brazilian caramel custard was as soft and light as a cloud. Its airiness combined perfectly with its creamy sweetness. I was just as delighted to find a crunchy layer of toasted coconut encasing the moist, fluffy butter cake in our second selection. The cake's weightless texture contrasted with the rich whipped cream and crème Anglaise which spilled over the top. Turning at last to the chocolate terrine, I met an opulent serving of dark, velvety chocolate. I paused to sip café Brazil santos, sweetened Brazilian coffee, while I lingered with this dessert to make it last as long as possible.

You owe it to yourself to slip into the comforts of Sergio's and sample the delicacies of Brazil. However, just as in real travel, it is highly recommended that you make a reservation for your escape. Sergio's cozy indoor seating is limited. In the warmer months the outdoor patio is transformed into a tropical seaside resort complete with palm trees, and live music accompanies your dining experience almost every night. Sergio believes, “Our live music complements our use of organic food. It is the difference between something real and something pretend. We firmly believe that it is more enjoyable and rich to experience the real thing.”

With a tempting selection of alcoholic and non – alcoholic beverages, appetizers, salads, lunches, dinners and desserts, you will find that Sergio's can quell your yearning for a vacation in an infinite number of ways. My only suggestion to Sergio is that he accompany every plate with the fried spinach!
Sergio's is located at 1903 Ford Drive, University Circle, Cleveland. You can reach them by calling (216) 231-1234. The restaurant is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 to 2:30 and for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5:30 to 9:30, Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to 11:00 and Sunday from 4:00 to 9:00. Sergio's also provides extensive custom catering for private events in homes and corporate functions. The selections extend beyond Brazilian fare into a broad range of styles.

Sylvia Gallo provides beautiful guitar melodies for any occasion. She can be reached at (216) 221-1270.