Pat and Dan Conway, brothers and co-owners of GLBC, hold themselves to an exceptionally admirable standard in their business practices. Since the 1988 opening of GLBC, the first micro-brewery in the area since Prohibition, the Conways have strived to build a profitable business that supports social responsibility and environmental awareness. They have donated frequently to local nonprofit organizations and schools, integrated energy-efficient modifications to the buildings, developed biodiesel fuel from their spent restaurant grease (and purchased a small shuttle bus to run on it) and maximized their recycling efforts – and these are just a few of their mentionable measures.

    GLBC's pub kitchen is yet another hotbed of social and environmental consciousness. Item after item on the restaurant's menu boasts “local,” “natural” or “organic.” Local farms and vendors at the West Side Market are credited within the descriptions. Possibly less obvious, however, is the inclusion of products made from “brewing leftovers.” Additional menu items actually contain beer from low-fill bottles that would otherwise be discarded.

   Executive Chef, Derek Wilson, who has been with GLBC for seven years, is responsible for everything from ordering the products, to searching for new ingredients, to picking up items from local farms. Derek has also developed close relationships with farmers and vendors all over Northeast Ohio. Some are as close as the local merchants in the neighborhood's West Side Market. “We give local purveyors recognition on the menu because it's necessary in order to get this movement to grow,” he explains.

   The Brewhouse Burger, made using fresh ground beef from Lance's Beef at the West Side Market, is one of GLBC's most popular menu items. Thick, fresh, juicy and cooked exactly to order, this burger is worthy of abundant accolades. Derek tells us, “The meat is ground when our order comes in, so it's never frozen.” He continues, “I could probably get ground beef for less money from a big purveyor, but I don't know where they are getting it from.” The meat at Lance's comes from Ohio Amish farms, and the owner has even invited Derek to accompany him to the auction when he makes his livestock purchases.
Derek is also welcome at the many farms he deals with. “That's one of the great things about the local farmers,” he shares. “A lot of care goes into these products, and I know that these people worry about what they are feeding their plants and animals.” In addition to connecting with individual farms, Derek regularly visits North Union Farmers Market.

   GLBC also supports the local economy and the environment through their “Take, Make, Remake” initiatives. Most brewers simply dispose of the grain that remains from the brewing process, but relationships with a variety of local businesses allow GLBC to recycle this byproduct, which still contains valuable nutrients. Zoss the Swiss Baker in Cleveland Heights bakes the grain into hearty bread, big soft pretzels and pizza crust.

   During my dining experience at GLBC, I found the amazing, oversized Brewer's Pretzels to be airy but substantial. Served with two types of mustard and a creamy anchovy dip, this perfectly salty, warm appetizer was savory and satisfying. Of the three choices for pizza, I sampled the Curry Chicken option. The warmth of the Thai curry and peanut sauce increased with each bite and heightened to an ideal heat that kept me sipping on my beer. The chicken came from a natural, free-range source, as does all the chicken on the menu.

   I also sampled the Mushroom and Fontina Ravioli. Ohio City Pasta makes the ravioli dough from dried, ground spent barley grains from the brewing process. Derek then cooks up the pasta and tops it with organic Killbuck Valley Farms shiitake and oyster mushrooms grown on a substrate that contains the spent grain. The mushrooms lend an earthiness to the medley of other flavors – grilled asparagus, red peppers, caramelized onions and a brilliant green, creamy asparagus sauce. Fresh and innovative, this rich dish is perfect for a cold winter day.

   GLBC has also formed relationships with local businesses to take advantage of beer in bottles that do not reach the appropriate fill-level on the production line. The sausages on the Bratwurst and Pierogi Plate are made by the West Side Market's F&K deli with GLBC's Dortmunder beer. Nestled alongside a couple of crunchy, creamy potato and cheese pierogis made in Cleveland's Slavic Village, these brats were moist, tender and extraordinarily savory. Derek proudly shares, “We have had people from Germany say it's the best brat they've had outside of their country!”

   For dessert, I dove into another dish prepared by a local business with beer from low-fill bottles – an ostensible mountain of Edmund Fitzgerald Porter Chocolate Chunk Ice Cream. Mitchell's Ice Cream has created this rich, creamy confection exclusively for GLBC. With nuggets of chocolate that range from freckles to boulders, this ice cream is a year-round favorite. (But if you're interested in a warm finale, go for the New Orleans-style Bread Pudding with whiskey sauce. Profoundly velvety, it's yet another GLBC favorite!)

   With everything made in-house and in-town from products grown and produced locally, patronizing Great Lakes Brewing Company's pub also supports the local economy and environment. They provide a delicious selection of bar bites and full meals for the conscious consumer. As Executive Chef Derek encourages, “We've got to keep this movement moving!” He adds, “...and drink local beer!” With quality meals prepared with natural, local ingredients and exceptional, chemical-free microbrew beer, we certainly cannot resist!

   For more information on GLBC’s social and environmental initiatives, please see November-December 2003 cover story.

Great Lakes Brewing Company is completely smoke-free. It is located at 2516 Market Avenue in Cleveland's Ohio City neighborhood and can be reached by calling (216) 771-4404. More information is also available on their website, www.greatlakesbrewing.com.

Photos by Bob Perkoski