Ubiquitous passion for culinary art pervades Chez François, an upscale dining establishment in Vermillion, Ohio. From owners to servers to guests, everyone at the restaurant fervently adores the lovingly prepared, artistically presented dishes made from nothing but superior ingredients. A French restaurant since 1968, the location was purchased in 1987 by current owners, Matthew Mars and Chef John D'Amico. Recognizing the importance of remaining true to its original culinary heritage, Matthew and John continue to offer a traditional French menu, as well as an evolving selection of gastronomic gifts.

   “If it's fresh and in season, we use it,” extols Chez François' website. During the summer months, the menu boasts some of Ohio's best bounties – berries of all kinds, lettuce, spinach, baby onions and, of course, corn.
With uninhibited glee, Chef John explains, “There's always variety by using local and seasonal ingredients, and that allows me to change my menu.” Judging merely by the long list of specials, one easily can see just how pleased this variety makes John. He adds, “With the specials, I always like to think about what I can do that is different.”

   Owners Matthew and John strive to form strong rela-tionships with both local and national purveyors to ensure the procurement of the finest. “Buy from the best,” Matthew insists. The owners do not settle for anything less, which in turn compels their purveyors to provide the highest quality and freshest products. “And,” Matthew adds, “we want to know the source of every-thing,” meaning that Mathew and John require information about the specific species, how it was grown or raised and when it was harvested. Ultimately, this means a definitive dining experience for each and every guest.

   Chez François is situated along the Vermillion River in the Sail Loft Building, a National Historic Landmark built in 1840. As the name indicates, the building originally was used for making and storing sails for the large vessels that sailed the Great Lakes. The interior retains the hand-hewn beams and exposed brick walls, which lend warmth and romantic, rustic charm to the room. Glowing in candlelight, the formal dining area is cozy and inviting.

   In the summer months, however, I recommend a seat in the Chez François Riverfront. Situated literally on the edge of the river, patrons are served on an open porch in comfortable wrought-iron patio furniture. Rich rugs beneath the feet and twinkle lights entwined in vines create a relaxed atmosphere. Guests may even pull their boats into restaurant slips for the evening.

   It was cool and breezy the night of my dining experience, so the Café was partially enclosed by tented walls with windows offering ample opportunities to gaze at the glistening river. Losing myself in the view of the treetops gently tossing in the wind, the low hum of small boats passing by soon pulled my attention back to the river in front of me.

   Suzie, our exceptionally fine server, immediately followed an introduction of herself with the question, “Is it a special occasion tonight?” I soon overheard her ask the same of couples as they arrived at surrounding tables. This simple question imparted an additional note of splendor to the ex-perience. With immense delight, one woman proudly declared that any night of dining with her son was a special night. Another woman shared that it was her birthday (which, of course, signaled for a candle in her dessert later).

   My meal began with an Amuse Bouche, a small bite of the chef's selection, which is considered a greeting from the chef. Artistically presented, Suzie first placed an espresso cup in front of me. A few morsels of fresh Maine lobster and a sprig of watercress were nestled inside. After allowing me a few moments to feast my eyes on the tiny delicacy, she poured the perfect amount of bisque from a petit pitcher, thus creating a second visual presentation. Richly creamy with a hint of pepper and wine, the few bites of bisque and tender lobster were fabulously decadent.

   My Scotch Barrel Smoked Scottish Salmon hors d'oeuvre was plated in an equally artistic, but distinctly different way. With the plate as the canvas, each color and texture of food had its own position and function for both viewing and tasting pleasures. The smoky, delicate salmon had a hint of honey flavor. Brilliantly paired with white pencil asparagus, crème fraiche, caviar, a micro breakfast radish and alternating dots of caper berries and basil-infused olive oil, this dish offered seemingly infinite combinations of flavors with each bite – crunchy, creamy, salty, excellently fresh and more.

   To cleanse my palette prior to the entrée, Suzie brought me a few delightful bites of an intensely flavored, homemade mango sorbet with mango coulis. A sprig of fresh spearmint garnished the side, and as was the case of with each my courses, I found that eating the garnish was a delicious and well-paired element of the presentation.

   Chez François's menu of entrées is vast, so selecting one seemed difficult. Thankfully, Suzie recommended one of the nightly specials, Barramundi fish. She noted that at Chez François they call this the “pampered fish.” Born in Australia, these fish are soon transported to a purveyor in Massachusetts where they are raised in filtered water. Chef John explained that because these fish are fed a wholesome, controlled diet of shrimp and other natural foods, they maintain a high level of omega-3 fatty acids and other nutrients. Their exceptional flavor and texture also can be attributed to their kid-glove handling. My piece of fish was mild, soft, light and flaky with a delicious crispy skin. It was served on a bed of slightly sweet braised fennel with brilliantly colored and crunchy water-melon radish slices atop the entire dish. The combination was a unique experience. Admittedly, I was a bit astonished by the amount of time and care that went into the piece of fish that I was privileged to eat.

   I soon discovered that dessert is not a course to bypass. Each dessert is served with a small glass of a wine pairing. Matthew explained that this was found to be a wonderful way to share delicious ports, ice wines and limoncello with guests who might not otherwise be so adventurous. Mine, a delectable molten chocolate gâteau with French vanilla-bean ice cream, was served with a lovely tawny port. The port beautifully complemented the velvety richness of the chocolate. The lusciously creamy vanilla ice cream sat in a tasty, crunchy almond cookie cup. Garnished with strawberries, raspberries, mint and a dark chocolate twirl, this dessert was easily large enough for two – and decadent enough for three.

   Chez François' artful presentations, superior preparations and intense attention to detail move it strides ahead of other fine dining establishments. The servers are unobtrusively friendly and genuine, as well as extremely knowledgeable and experienced. For a paramount opportunity to dine on some of the best seasonally ephemeral foods of the region – as well as some of the best in the nation and even the world – visit Chez François. Go for a special occasion, or if you have nothing in particular to celebrate, just celebrate the day. A friend of mine has been known to toast “Happy Tuesday!” At Chez François, any day definitely becomes a happy and special one.

Chez François is located at 555 Main Street, Vermillion, Ohio. The phone number is (440) 967-0630. More information about its menus and special events, such as its annual truffle festival at the end of November, can be found on its website: www.chezfrancois.com.

Photos by Bob Perkoski, www.Perkoski.com.