The Tremont neighborhood in Cleveland is isolated between networks of interstate highways and situated above the industrial flats overlooking downtown. When merely driving through, one has little chance to observe the intricate details of this vibrant community. Houses are tucked into alleys; alleys are tucked between streets. Locally owned galleries and restaurants imbue creativity and encourage community ties in this economically and culturally diverse neighborhood. Rocco Whalen, the executive chef/owner of the restaurant Fahrenheit, explained, “In Tremont, I sincerely believe we have the winning destination in Cleveland. It's not about one person being successful; it's about all of us being successful. It's a family.”

    His restaurant expertly merges the artistic and collaborative spirit of Tremont with fine food and a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Exposed brick combines with molded leaf patterns and jewel-toned walls. A large window offers a view to the street where neighborhood folks stroll by. The cozy bar is tucked away from the smoke-free dining area, and a semi-open kitchen offers a peek into the creative center of the restaurant.

The Slow Braised Snake River Farms Kobe Short Ribs was among the absolute best meat dishes that I have ever eaten.

    A native of Mentor, Ohio, Rocco has worked as a chef in top restaurants in Phoenix, Los Angeles and Las Vegas under the famous chef Wolfgang Puck. In May 2002 Rocco returned to Cleveland and opened Fahrenheit with his partners, the sister team of Kelly Repas (who also happens to be Rocco's fiancée) and Kim Adams. The same staff has worked for him this past three and a half years – a true testament to the family-like connections Rocco fosters.

    On any given night, the congenial chef Rocco can be seen taking breaks from the kitchen to roam the restaurant and mingle with the diners. He knows the regulars by name and his demeanor immediately makes first-timers feel at home. Conversations about local galleries and sports teams are as common as discussions about the food. In fact, when diners have specific diet requirements – vegetarian, vegan – or food sensitivities, Rocco visits the table to gather information and then creates a meal that appeals to their palates. “Give me carte blanche,” he says, “and I'll take care of the rest.”

    The food at Fahrenheit is considered continental American, but Rocco's Italian heritage and affinity for Asian and Mediterranean flavors heavily influences the preparations. The menu changes every four to six weeks which allows Rocco to foster his culinary creativity. (“There's just so much out there to cook,” he explained.) Rotating the menu also provides the opportunity to highlight the natural flavors of local, seasonal foods. Rocco frequents farmers' markets because, as he said, “It's important to keep the money in the local economy. I also enjoy shaking the farmers' hands and asking them how and why they grow their products. I appreciate the time and energy it takes them. Their roles are vital.”

The firm, juicy tomatoes were tossed in a zesty sherry vinaigrette and served with a large dollop of creamy, salty, herbed goat cheese and a crispy, toasted brioche.

    The menu at Fahrenheit is sizable but not overwhelming. Playing on the restaurant's name, much of it is categorized by cooking temperature. For example, pasta dishes are listed under the heading “212° F,” which is the temperature that water boils. A number of the items have been on the menu since the beginning, and I soon discovered that this is for very good, delicious reasons. My meal began with one such scrumptious selection – the Chinatown Chicken Springroll. A delicate, crispy-fried wonton encased minced, savory chicken. It offered a lingering spiciness. A cool ginger-dipping sauce and cucumber salad perfectly complemented this dish.

    My second appetizer expertly highlighted seasonal flavors as well as Rocco's flair for an artistic presentation. Three small figs were wrapped in thin slices of apple and then roasted to a tender perfection. Alongside them laid Camembert cheese and parsnip puree. Assembling a bite with each element of the appetizer, I was thrilled with the unusual combination of the slightly sweet fig, tart apple, earthy parsnip and creamy cheese.

    The timing of my fall visit to Fahrenheit allowed me to sample the last tomatoes of the season in the Avon Ridge Bridge Farm Heirloom Tomato Salad. The bowl was brimming with a rainbow of locally famous tomatoes – green, orange, red and yellow varieties – each with a distinct, sweet flavor. The firm, juicy tomatoes were tossed in a zesty sherry vinaigrette and served with a large dollop of creamy, salty, herbed goat cheese and a crispy, toasted brioche.

The molten cake’s warm, velvety fudge-like center oozed onto the plate and mingled with the accompanying ice cream.

    In order to select a main course, I enlisted the advice of our server Sara. Upon learning that she has dreams about the short ribs, my decision became transparently easy. The Slow Braised Snake River Farms Kobe Short Ribs was among the absolute best meat dishes that I have ever eaten. The Idaho purveyor raises its award-winning cattle – a cross between Japanese Wagyu and American Black Angus – on natural grains in unconfined pastures. Free from hormones, this natural meat exceeds the U.S.D.A. categorization as prime and has a higher percentage of unsaturated fat than any other breed. I easily cut the tender, succulent short ribs without a knife. Uniquely marinated in ginger, the meat was paired with teriyaki lo-mien noodles and earthy-roasted mushrooms.

    To finish my meal, I selected two equally exceptional, yet distinctly different desserts. The tangy passion-fruit tart was bathed in creamy caramel and served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Simultaneously light and rich, this confection was outstanding and unique. Chocoholics should indulge in the decadent molten cake. Its warm, velvety fudge-like center oozed onto the plate and mingled with the accompanying ice cream. Crunchy candied walnuts and white-chocolate pralines added variety to each luscious bite.

    My meal at Fahrenheit definitely exhibited Rocco's ability to infuse fresh, natural flavors into unique, appetizing preparations. In my opinion, this is one restaurant that should be at the top of your list. I highly recommend dropping in for a meal or even just an appetizer or stone-oven pizza at the bar. With a calendar filled with fundraisers, wine tastings and local gallery events, Fahrenheit also offers an ongoing variety of engaging evenings.

Fahrenheit is located at 2417 Professor in the Tremont neighborhood of Cleveland. For more information or reservations, visit www.FahrenheitTremont.com or call (216) 781-8858.

Photos by Bob Perkoski - www.Perkoski.com.