"Lolita." In pop culture, the name is synonymous with a seductive young girl, and in the Tremont neighborhood of Cleveland, the name aptly describes the less than two-year-old restaurant owned by internationally renowned chef, Michael Symon. Situated in the space that previously housed Lola – Michael's upscale establishment now located on East Fourth Street in downtown Cleveland – Lolita is no less sophisticated. However, as Lola's “younger sister,” Lolita is decidedly laid back – gregariously welcoming guests into a casual, yet hip, atmosphere. “She” tempts guests to explore the extensive menu offerings and then flirts with their palates, offering a seemingly limitless list of emphatically unique and indulgently delightful menu items.

Subtle textures and neutral tones envelop the dining area, juxtaposed by a diminutive bar and semi-exposed kitchen. A pie-tin ceiling, hanging ductwork and occasional ironwork add subdued, yet artful, detail to the room. Tangerine-colored toss pillows, whimsical hanging lamps studded with miniature butterflies and birds, and vases of blossoming tree branches punctuate the space with color and energy. The atmosphere immediately imparts unpretentious comfort and unashamed capriciousness.

Seating for 60 only, Lolita beckons one and all to find solace while seeking sustenance. With a “come as you are” attitude, the restaurant has no need – or desire – for a dress code. Patrons should wear “whatever makes them feel comfortable.” Executive Chef Matt Harlan describes a moment when he wished he had a camera, “One day, before a Browns game, a guy dressed completely in Browns football gear stood at the bar right next to a man dressed in a tuxedo.” He marvels, “It was awesome.”

The menu selections and price points are as comfortable as the restaurant's vibe, with an extensive variety of offerings meant to be shared – and many of these fit the “comfort food” category as well. From mac and cheese and braised beef short ribs to fried smelts and crispy pig ears, the menu invites diners to sample unique preparations of long-time favorites and venture into amazing takes on often-uncharted offerings.

Michael and Matt, who have worked together for more than 10 years, have fostered relationships with small farms throughout Northeast Ohio. Michael explains, “We practice sustainable cuisine because nothing tastes better than a freshly picked vegetable or a locally raised hog. Also, it gives us the ability to communicate directly with the farmer about the products.” Due to Lolita's small size, these farmers can cater to chefs' needs and desires, and some growers even have invited Michael and Matt to make special requests prior to the planting season.

Michael continues, “If we – as chefs and a community – do not support our local farms, they soon will be gone, and we will be stuck eating over-processed, antibiotic-ridden food that lacks good flavor and is poor for our health.”

Extending support to fellow chefs as well, Matt explains that many restaurants in the Cleveland area share resources. “If one of us identifies a good farmer, we connect each other with the source. We also borrow products from each other from time to time.” This leads to greater opportunities for area farmers to disseminate their fresh, unique and delicious products to the skilled hands of our region's talented chefs, who then artfully encourage the products to fulfill their destiny in outstanding preparations.

I sampled a number of such dishes during my early spring visit to Lolita. Settled into a cushioned bench window seat, I began with a sampling of house-cured meats, artisan cheeses, house-smoked seafood, oysters on the half shell and a number of other petite plates. I thoroughly enjoyed hopping from flavor to flavor. For example, salty, delicate cured duck breast for one bite, followed by peppery, tangy pickled fennel for the next.

With so many offerings, I encourage you to try at least a few items while at Lolita that expand the horizons of your palette. Do not skip the crispy pig ears – a crunchy exterior, a moist and slightly chewy center and salty through and through. Lightly breaded and served with fresh basil, the fried smelts, a type of small freshwater fish, are another must-have. Matt says that although he had never had them before working here, he now will never take them off the menu. (Thank goodness!)

Items from the entrée section of the menu are meant to be shared, too. You will be delighted to delve into more than just one of these dishes. A couple of my favorites included the roasted scallops and the gnocchi Bolognese. Smoky, rich bacon had been crumbled over the fresh and tender scallops. Delicate bits of soft, sweet butternut squash and deliciously bitter brussels sprouts leaves rounded out each bite. In the gnocchi dish, guanciale (pork cheek) enriched each bite. The bowl brimmed with the perfect balance of tender, savory braised shredded pork and veal along side the light pillows of gnocchi.

Lolita offers a notable wine selection, and our server (also named Matt) expertly paired glasses with each of our selections. And he did not lead us astray when it came time for dessert. To satisfy those who prefer rich desserts, I recommend the peanut butter parfait. Layers of chocolate mousse and peanut butter mousse fill a coffee mug to the brim with absolute decadence. A sprinkling of fresh salt graces the top and absolutely makes this dessert a winner in my book. However, sometimes a lighter dessert is preferred to finish a meal. In that case, go for the lemon semi-freddo, a sweet and tart delight. A cross between an ice cream and a mousse, it had a slight licorice flavor and was topped with fresh berries and basil.

Regardless of how you start or end your eating adventure at Lolita, you will feel loved through and through. “She” even offers a happy-hour menu both in the early evening and later, too. In addition to serving local, farm-fresh products impeccably prepared and presented, Lolita will envelop you in the comfortable energy of “her” space, leading you to share plates of food and good times with friends…and leaving you with a desire to visit “her” again.

Lolita is located at 900 Literary Road in the Tremont neighborhood of Cleveland and can be reached by calling (216) 771-5652. For more information, visit www.LolaBistro.com.

Photos by Bob Perkoski, www.Perkoski.com.